A Journey Due North: Being Notes of a Residence in Russia in the Summer of 1856
A Journey Due North: Being Notes of a Residence in Russia in the Summer of 1856
Sala George Augustus
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The best illuminations, then^ that met my gaze, were- on the birth-night of the Empress-mother, and consisted of an indefinite quantity of earthen pots, filled with train-oil, or fat, and furnished with wicks of tow. These being set alight were placed in rows along the pave- ment, one to each little wooden post, or borne. It was the antediluvian French system of lampions, in fact, smelling abominably, smoking suffocatingly, but making a brave blaze notwithstanding, and, in the almost in- termin...able perspective of streets and quays, producing a very curious and ghastly effect. At midnight you could walk a hundred yards on the Nevsko'i, without ^ finding a single soul abroad to look at the illuminations : at midnight it was broad daylight. The windows were all. blind and headless ; what distant droschkies there may have been, made not the thought of a noise on the THE czar's highway. 131 wooden pavement ; and these rows of blinking, flaring grease-pots resting on the earth, led you to fancy that yOTi were walking on the roofs of a city of the dead, illuminated by corpse-candles.
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