Cloud Road

Cover Cloud Road
Cloud Road
John Harrison
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The Land of the Lost: Cajamarca to Cuzco 3. The Land of the Lost: Cajamarca to Cuzco A New Eden From Baños, we began to walk forty-five miles south to the small town of Cajabamba, climbing a road hedged by eucalyptus trees and dramatic cabuya cactuses. Red clay mixed with straw made sumptuous adobe for houses whose walls shone in the sun like old gold. Halfway up a hot hill we bought oranges from a local store. I asked the lady, ‘How many tourists do you see on this road in a year?’ ‘On average?...’ ‘Yes.’ ‘Roughly?’ ‘Yes.’ ‘Taking all things into account?’ ‘Yes.’ ‘None.’ This was Elaine’s first serious walking and she was going well. At the first col was a small football pitch. It exploited all the available flat land, which made it diamond-shaped. I tried to imagine tactics. Looking back down the mountain, little Baños was the size Cajamarca had been at the conquest: it was hard to imagine history decided in a village square. Looking ahead, we could see our route for many miles, up a pretty valley to a notch in the ridge.

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