Combined Structures

Cover Combined Structures
Combined Structures
William John Macquorn Rankine
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Recent investigations tend towards the conclusion, which is in accordance with observation, that every wave is more or less a " wave of translation, " setting down each particle of water, or of matter suspended in water, a little in advance of where it picked that particle up, and thus by degrees producing that heaping up of water which gathers on a lee shore during a storm. This property of waves accounts for the facts, that although they tend to undermine and demolish steep cliffs, they heap
...up sand, gravel, shingle, or such materials as they are able to sweep along, upon every flat or sloping beach against which they directly roll; that they carry such materials into bays and estuaries ; and that when they advance obliquely along the coast they make the materials of the beach travel along the coast in the same direction.
513. Tides in General. The general motion of the tides consists in an alternate vertical rise and fall, and horizontal ebb and flow, occupying an average period of half a lunar day, or about 124 hours, and transmitted from place to place in the seas like a series of very long and swift waves, in which the extent of the horizontal motion is very much greater than that of the vertical motion.


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