Instrument to Measure the Two-Dimensional Wave Slope Spectrum of Ocean Capillary Waves

Cover Instrument to Measure the Two-Dimensional Wave Slope Spectrum of Ocean Capillary Waves
Instrument to Measure the Two-Dimensional Wave Slope Spectrum of Ocean Capillary Waves
Palm, Charles Shelby, 1943-
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The result is an erroneous indication that the wave of radian frequency w contains a superposed ripple component of radian frequency 3w. Growth of the co- efficient £ 2 is very rapid as the slope exceeds 30°, but for slopes of 35 or less, greater than 80?2 of the error is associated with the coeffi- cient €. , the "in phase" error component. Since the instrument described 30° 60° WAVE PHASE (degrees) Figure 22 : Error in wave slope measurement, 6 , as a function of wave phase for various values... of maximum wave slope and for k/f =0.7 ( tyr - 6.3*0- in this paper is not suitable for measuring slopes in excess of 35 at reasonable heights above the water surface, the problem of errors shift- ing to higher frequencies may be considered of negligible importance .
The quantity defined by the symbol ^- should be taken as an error rather than a correction factor to be applied to the wave slope data, unless the wave number spectrum of the wave field is accurately known.
This is true because the orbital velocity or the fluid velocity associ- ated with the gravity waves destroys the one-to-one correspondence between the observed signal frequency, f , and the wave number, k, as is discussed presently.


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