Our Hispanic Southwest

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" [99] OUR HISPANIC SOUTHWEST black-brocaded costume of the time of Velasquez, with a finely chiselled, pathetic face and realistic bands that hold a rich lace handkerchief.
With the custodian, an "English soldier of for- tune, " as he styled himself, I ascended the bell- tower and looked down upon the flat-roofed city of sun-baked brick and upon the market near by, where men in peaked straw hats were bartering and selling, where toothless old women in black sat at meagrely stocked stalls, and
...patient burros received and discharged their loads — a typical picture, I thought, of quaint old Mexico.
Then the electric car took me over the second international bridge, at whose far end refugees were opening their trunks for the inspection of the customs officers. In an instant I was transported to the bustle of El Paso's busy streets and sitting in the gilded splendour — too gilded and too splen- did, I fear — of her "million-dollar hotel, " whose lobbies, despite their Waldorfian atmosphere, em- anated a distinct air of confabulation with their closely seated groups of young American engineers from Sonora, mingled with knots of dark-skinned Mexicans talking in whispers with gesticulating [100] ALONG THE MEXICAN BORDER forefingers and an air of intense, if suppressed, ex- citement.


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