"standard" Work On Cutting

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Had we any practical method of measuring the angle from the instep to the fork allowing for the bend of knee and the lobe of the seat, we should only have to bring the waist to measure, and all our difiiculties would be solved; but as it is^ this is a matter of experience and judgment ; and theoretical agreement seems about as impossible as practical divergence.
We have given two drafts ; the first is somewhat novel and is an attempt to govern each portion of the garment by its measure on the f
...orm ; — Bottom, Seat, and Waist. It is more self varying than usual and produces for all shapes a graceful and easy fit.
The second is one of the best practical methods which we know of, founded on generally received ideas, corrected by the light of our experience. Theoretical dis- putants have grown grey, and have left the question of " open and close cut " still unsolved ; yet the mystery lies within a very narrow compass. " How much shall the angle be opened ^" As the angle of the leg seam is opened the side seam is shortened ; as the angle of the leg seam is closed the side seam is lengthened ; when the side seam is short, horizontal creases will appear on the tap side from fork to knee, too much clotli is apparent up and down the leg, but a smooth back part is given, easy for riding or to sit down in ; but otherwise fnll of fatal objections ; when the side seam is long there will be tightness at knee when the leg is in motion, sitting down or going up stairs the constraint becomes annoying ; a too crooked seat line will cause the goods to bag at the seat and the fork will look too full ; too straight a seat line will also cause Avant of ease in sitting or stooping and the pantaloons will bulge at the knee.


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