The Big Necessity

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It’s harvest time, and the oxen are on their way home. All day, I’d seen women in roadside fields forking hay with pitchforks in Thomas Hardy scenes, their bright saris and gold jewelry glittering amid yellow grass. There is no point sounding horns at the oxen, because horns are blared so often on Indian roads they have long lost any effect of outrage or advantage. There is nothing to do but wait, so I open the car door to get out.
“Be careful,” says Joe Madiath, who is traveling with me. “You a
...re about to step on the village toilet.”
Joe is a thoughtful host. He is a busy man with a huge job, as his organization, Gram Vikas, is trying to install latrines and water supply in as many Orissan villages as possible. Nonetheless, he always remembers to point out the sights. “That’s where the toilet starts,” he says, often, pointing to the side of a road just outside a village. I don’t need to specify which village, as only 4 percent of the population of Orissa has a latrine, and the sanitation story is the same everywhere.


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