Ashoka: the Search for India's Lost Emperor (2015)

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It shows admirers standing on the upper floor of the ruins of the palace to examine the golden pillar that its builder had made the central feature: Firoz Shah’s Lat. The mosque on the right still stands but much of the original fortress was subsequently demolished to make room for the cricket stadium. (Metcalfe Album, APAC, British Library) In India today the IPL Twenty20 Cricket League is the hottest thing there is; a brash, brazen affair in which eight teams composed of the best that money ca...n buy meet in eight cities to slog it out over a series of twenty-over matches played under floodlights. Each team has its own home base and in Delhi that means the Delhi Daredevils occupying the Feroz Shah Kotla Stadium. The word kotla means ‘fort’ but the walls of that fortress are long gone. Cricket has been played here since 1883 and for most Indians Firoz Shah Kotla means one thing: cricket – and nothing else. Few associate the name with Delhi’s Muslim past and fewer still are aware that the huddle of ruins in the shadow of the stadium from which it takes its name contains one of India’s most ancient and most extraordinary relics.

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