Northern Spain Painted And Described

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At first we had fellow - voyagers ; — a homeward ploughman with his yoke of oxen, — a shepherd with his whip — (is there any other region where shepherds use whips ?) — and his droop- necked flock earing the ground towards their fold. But soon the dusk won its will, and the darkling track lay empty. The only survivor astir was the habitual belated arriei'o, with his team outspanned for the night and his waggon beached upon the margin of the road. The stars had already begun to flicker up in the... heavens, and we could see that Torrelodones, the next village, must be Hobson's choice for ourselves.
At Torrelodones, saith the proverb, are twenty- four burgesses and twenty-five thieves (the twenty- fifth being the curate) ; yet there is no innkeeper among so many. Bread and wine, however, were forthcoming at one of the cabins, and eggs at a second, which we got cooked at a third ; and if anyone wanted to wash himself, was there not the fountain on the village green ? Beds, however, were a difl^erent matter.


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